Dauin, Negros Oriental

From the far already the dark beaches of Dauin could be seen, whose dark colour has probably been given through the volcanic activity of mount Kanlaon. Even during one dive the warm sand could still be felt under water and a bubbling up observed.

By arriving at the shores of Dauin we were longingly looking back at the graceful Philippine Siren.

As we have already been doing 31 dives in 9 days in Malapascua and on the Siren we wanted to slow down a little and were planning for 4 dives in the next 2 days around Dauin. Our new divemaster and guide was the filipina Adelfa. We were told that 2 years ago she came from Davao to become a divemaster at Sea Explorers in Dauin. She was equally gifted with the ability to find things underwater as our prior guide Martin. She knew about the little makro creatures and how to comb through the seagras and weeds without injuring or frighten its inhabitants.

           Two ghostpipefishes

Our diving highlights were ghostpipefishes (see left picture) in different colours and shapes which were quite common as these creatures prefer the sandy bottoms with seagras. One of our favourite divespots was Luca's Sancuary, where many different kinds of schools of fishes could be observed and beautiful corals could be admired. At our last dive we first saw a huge sepia floating like a spaceship in the water, suspiciously looking at our movements. While slowly finishing our dive we suddenly spotted between 2 barrel sponges a giant turtle resting with its companions, 2 remoras. We were struck by the beauty of the moment and after a while the turtle gracefully set off for the next destination and on its bottom the 2 remoras following her.

In Dauin we also met a couple of interesting people. Thereof a guy called "Brüno" (Bruno) who stated in our first conversation that he is "ö trü frönch" (a true french) and an elderly french couple, of which according to Roberto the woman has the looks of auntie Livia (this is a Ceschi insider), though both in good shape and very sportive (at least 2 dives à day).

At one of our diving-free day we took a ride to Dumaguete to have a look at the city and get some fresh and tasty seafood for lunch. First we wanted to give a try with a motorbike but the only one's for rent were of a more sportive kind (offroading) and nothing for the city. Therefore we tried our luck with just strolling along the street until a Jeepney stopped by and we joined the approximately 30 passengers. By the end of our trip the Jeepney (originally made from US military jeeps left over from World War II and part of philippine culture) has been loaded by 40 to 45 people and every single space has been used efficiently. The trip was though interesting and adventurous. For Dauin Central the use of a Tricycle (like a thai TucTuc) was convenient.

In general the public transportation (Jeepney, Tricycle and Taxi) whether in Dumaguete, Cebu or Davao is very much regulated and we have never been cheated, as there is an official bureau for complaints if you feel not properly treated by a public transportation.

By the end of our diving trip we had 35 dives each, made in 11 days and a heart and mind full of the most beautiful joint impressions and experiences like the dusky sky after a sunsetdive below...

More pics of Dauin

SY Philippine Siren - South Visayas Trip

We love liveaboard experience as you feel much closer to the sea and everything you do is diving, eating, sleeping, a little talking, diving, eating, sleeping... We therefore concluded that an additional liverboard trip mustn't be lacking in our philippine trip.

We chose the Philippine Siren, a 40 m motor-driven sailing boat, with a crew of 11 people and space for 16 guests. On our trip we were only 6 guests, consisting of 2 swiss (us), 2 filipinas (Alya and Amelia) and 2 chinese (Andy and Haian), which obviously meant a crew of 11 people for 6 guests, unbelievable!

Susie and Thomas, a married couple of english and german origin were leading the adventure as our dive and trip guides, both sensible and gifted divers and fotographers. I was often thinking that there is nothing more beautiful, than to have somebody with the same interests, who shares the same valuable experience and to be able to have an occupation which very much includes everything you love and appreciate. Both of them possess the ability to see hidden things and rejoicing in even the smallest creature floating through the water or scamper between anemones and soft corals. I liked to observe the way they were moving through water and looking for small stuff in a graceful and gentle manner.

The main crew consisted of 9 people, half filipinos and half indonesians. Every single one of them very devoted to their work and everything done with much love. No stiff environment but sincere and of course professional too.

Every single guest had its own "station" with tank and diving equipment and own everyday fresh towel. Everthing has been taken care for: After diving Tata was waiting with hot tea, hot chocolate, water or beer (after last dive) at the reiling. After diving the crew took care of the washing and hanging of the diving equipment. After the nightdive a warm towel would already wait for us. After every dive a snack or meal has been prepared. There are even more things to list but these have been the most valuable ones to us.

From left to right: Andy, Roberto, me, Alya, Amelia, Susie and Haian

The other 4 guests were from the Philippines and China. The 2 filippina women Alya and Amelia are 2 experienced divers (Alya with 30 years experience) and it seemed as if they have been buddies for ever. Under water you could see and feel how much they harmonized and even without speaking a word they have had their own way of conversation through gestures about this coral and that creature. Alya is a journalist and works for WWF writing about her underwater experience and environmental topics and she also publishes articles in diving magazines. Amelia with chinese origins and knowing the divespots in Anilao and Puerto Galera like her left pocket has given us additional valuable information about beautiful dive sites in the Philippines, good restos and spas. The 2 chinese men, Haian and Andy live in Beijing. Andy does investments, has branches in all over the world, is well travelled, open minded and humorous. Andy also encouraged Roberto and me to do the Rescue Diver as the practical knowhow on what to do in an emergency case has given him more confidence and security. And it is not so long since Andy has been challenged once during the Siren trip and was well prepared as certified Rescue Diver :)...

The south visayas trip started in Mactan harbour passing Cabilao, Panganan, Balicasag, Siquijor Island, Dauin and Apo Island and ended in Dauin, Negros. Throughout our trip we have seen lots of macro creatures, such as nudibranchs, pipefishes, ghostpipefishes, seahorses but also scorpion- and lionfishes, turtles, stingray, sepias, different kinds of crabs and shrimps, moray eels, beautiful coral gardens and also the mandarin fishes.

Roberto and I spent 5 magnificent days on the Philippine Siren, with its crew, Amelia, Alya, Andy and Haian, which we will never forget and we definitely intend to repeat a trip with Worldwide Dive and Sail.

More pics of our SY Philippine Siren trip

Malapascua - Island of Tresher Sharks

It took us about 24 hours from Zurich to get to Malapascua island, which lays on top of the Cebu island. Our general impression about the Philippines at our arrival was that it owns a variety of flora and is rich of different kinds of plants, flowers and trees. People are poor compared to Switzerland (of course) but during our cartrip we have seen many children playing at the borders of the streets, laughing, having fun and being satisfied with what they have.

Arrived in Malapascua we were struck by the beauty and wilderness of the landscape, not too much touched (compared to the islands in Thailand), as it is still not very convenient to get there (4 hours drive and boat ride). You almost only meet dive tourism there and the island is split into the 3 main diving providers and some additional resorts and restaurants in a very reasonable amount which doesn't seem to waste the area yet too much by tourism.

         

           Pigmy seahorse in sea fan

The local people are very friendly, hospitable and always up to a good joke which very much describes the filipino character. Our diveguide Mark with nickname Martin (every filipino has a nickname :))) is one of the greatest underwater spotter ever seen. Originally from Apo Island he is the most experienced dive guide (20 years experience!!) in Malapascua. A real marinero and passionate diver with this certain feeling for underwater creatures. There were no 10 seconds passing under water when he did not spot something special, whether it was a colourful nudibranch, ghostpipefish, white tip sharks and in the end even a tresher shark.

Malapascua is famous for its tresher sharks getting a regular cleaning at Monad Shoal during sunrise. It took us 5 times before we were able to spot a single one, which meant to get up every morning at 4.15 am to get to Monad Shoal by 5.30 am. Tresher Sharks are in general very shy and whenever you are able to spot one you ought to control your breathing as they are afraid of the bubbles.

The day we got to see one already started very promising. While descending at a rope to get to the bottom of Monad Shoal a baby manta ray was passing by gracefully like an eagle. I could not get rid of the feeling that something more ought to happen. After 10 minutes laying on the ground and waiting I almost couldn't believe my eyes, there was a single Tresher Shark gliding through the water and its beautiful silvery body with the enormous tail fin was shining, even though the visibility wasn't optimal. I was struck by the beauty of the moment and very much touched so I really had to shed a tear.

Although Malapascua is famous for its regular sighting of Tresher Sharks it is also rich of diverse beautiful divespots, such as in Gato Island, where many different kinds of nudibranchs and fishes, white tips, corals etc. can be admired and observed amidst a breathtaking underwater landscape.

We were more or less spending our time in Malapascua with locals who are reliable companions and funny people like Martin, Dishiely and many others. Roberto was very popular among the locals, because of his spanish sounding name and his easygoing and joking nature. They called him Roberto Agas (agas means floating) and whenever Roberto appeared on the surface again (after a dive) they were already calling his name.

One situation I have to share now, as it is a very funny one. It was the first dive at Gato Island while preparing to get into the water. While everybody was already under water for 10 minutes, Roberto was still preparing his fins, mask etc. and even for the Filipinos he was a bit too slow and they were joking about him in Bisaya using the expression "langay langay", which means slowly. But as I already used the term in his presence and explaining it to him he knew what they were talking about. And therefore the whole situation ended up into much laughter and surprise, as the locals did not expect him to know the word "langay langay".

One of our acquaintance Dishely is a young, spirited, smart and gwapa pinay and originally from the island itself. We spent our last evening with her and amidst other filipinos with filipino barbecue, filipino steamed rice, a delicious mango desert à la Dish (comparable with tiramisu, but much better) and nonstop singing.

The food in the Philippines was the best we have ever eaten in south east asia. We do prefer very simple and light kitchen as fried, grilled or steamed fish, squid, shrimp, chicken with rice and a little sauce consisting of chilly, filipino lemon (calamansi), asian vinegar and soy sauce or just in the adobo style. The fruits are sweet and the taste of mangoes, pineapple and papaya cannot be compared to any other place in the world.

Malapascua's beauty, its astonishing surrounding islands and underwater world and the affectionate local people won't be easily forgotten and therefore nothing more remains than to say kami mobalik!

More pics of beautiful malapasqua

Our trip starts with a surprise...

Our trip started with a surprise, as usual. While boarding the Singapore Airline in Zurich, we spotted somewhere in the back Oliver Scotoni with his wife. During our flight we also spotted one of the partner of Schwander Weine, whom we have seen in a wine trip documentary at TV on 3Sat. During the flight Oliver Scotoni passed by at our seats and we spent 1 to 2 hours at the Changi Singapore airport drinking jasmin tea and coffee. Oliver related to us that he and his wife and Felix (partner of Schwander Weine) and some other people are going for Yoga holidays in Thailand (We do not remember the island anymore). Before parting Felix choose a red wine for Roberto's birthday, which we were carrying with us for almost 2 weeks until we opened it for a special occasion in Dauin.

Once in a while during our trip Roberto and I had to grin upon the romantic imagination of Oliver Scotoni doing the "Downward Facing Dog" while the sun is rising. :))

gimingaw ko pilipinas

I was often thinking about the Philippines, missing our relatives, the beautiful landscape and its affectionate inhabitants. Unlike other holiday destinations in southeast asia the Philippines was much more an affair of the heart to me. It is an emotion that dwells deep in my heart. Its sounds, odours and colours a constant companion whenever I was willing to apprehend them.

It was not until I turned 16 that I really started to appreciate my second origin while visiting the Philippines for the 3rd time. My 4th time was at age 24 and now, at age 33 I was returning home, with much curiosity, interest and love, starting in the visayas.

Our trip through the Visayan islands